Chef Andrew giving 'Station' another try

This article originally appeared in the September 30, 2008 edition of the Bennington Banner and is used by permission.

BENNINGTON - One of the town's most identifiable buildings, which has played host to several restaurants in past years, has reopened with another eatery - and with owners who hope to erase skepticism. Bennington Station Chef Robert Andrew has been down this track before, only to see his efforts derailed. Andrew was briefly the chef of Tally's Tavern, the previous establishment, which failed earlier this year. Things are different this time, he said.

"This time around, I have 100 percent discretion," Andrew said Monday, seated in the dining room of the historic former town rail station building on Depot Street.

The restaurant opened its doors about three weeks ago, and so far, Andrew said, has received a "fabulous response." Early indicators look positive, but the goal is longevity, and Andrew said the public's past experiences with the site must be overcome.

"What's happened in the past is probably the biggest hurdle," he said. The former rail station, the site of a popular bar during the 1970s, was first opened as a restaurant in 1986 by Jim Grabowski. It closed a full 10 years later in 1996 when the business went through Chapter 11 bankruptcy proceedings. It reopened in July 1997, after the property was purchased by a local construction company, McDonald-Secor. The restaurant was operated by Robert Frederick Robert Eagan. The restaurant closed again in early 2006.

The business was revived, briefly, in February 2007, when Michael Galipeau moved his establishment, Tally's Tavern, into the building. A new banquet facility was added.

Galipeau, who also ran a small grocery store on Depot Street, ran into financial trouble, however, and moved his retail store into the banquet facility. Both business eventually went under. Andrew served as the chef of Tally's Tavern, but left before the business failed. Now, though, Andrew is back. He co-owns the restaurant with James Secor of McDonald-Secor, and says he will run the day-to-day operations.

Andrew, who said he is "all in" this time, said he sees himself as a New England chef, catering to the taste buds and values of New England eaters. For him, success rests on where he can deliver "fair portions, fair prices and good quality."

"If you can give them those consistently, the business is yours," he said. As a native of the region, Andrew said he has designed a menu that "screams New England." It has all the staples - cod, lobster and turkey. His favorite dish, which has won several awards, is the mushroom and lobster ragout, because it has "the sweetness of the lobster and the earthiness of the mushrooms."

While the restaurant serves quality Angus beef from Creekstone Farms, a Midwest ranch, Andrew said he still loves working with lobster, whether it's breaking the crustacean down or fitting it into dishes. The menu's lobster roll is another of his favorites. "It's so simple but also so perfect," he said.

The menu items contain top-quality ingredients, Andrew said, but the prices remain affordable, something he said he will continue because the restaurant should be enjoyed by everyone.

"The Bennington Station has always been known as fine dining," he said. "I think we're a cross between a really good steakhouse and a gastropub."

After leaving Tally's Tavern, Andrew returned to Williamstown, Mass., to his previous restaurant, The 1896 House. But he made the decision to come back when a new opportunity developed. Aside from the area, Andrew said the draw was the building.

"I think it may be the same thing that drew me back to The 1896 House. They are both historic buildings," Andrew said.

The Richardsonian Romanesque-style building was constructed in 1897 and served as the town's passenger rail station until 1933. The rock-faced blue marble structure was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1988.

Andrew is now hoping that the setting, a focus on fairly priced, quality food and hard work will translate into longevity. "I don't think I want to be anywhere else. This is a great place to live, a great place to work," he said.

NEAL P. GOSWAMI, Staff Writer

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